"Hollow to hem" is a term used primarily in the garment industry, particularly in pattern making and sewing, to describe the length of a garment from the armhole or shoulder point down to the hem. It's a crucial measurement for determining the overall length and fit of a garment, especially for dresses, tops, and other items where the length is a significant design element. Understanding this measurement is key for both professional seamstresses and enthusiastic DIYers.
What is the difference between hollow to hem and shoulder to hem?
While both measurements relate to garment length, they differ in their starting point. Hollow to hem measures the length from the armhole (the hollow) to the hemline. Shoulder to hem, on the other hand, measures from the shoulder point to the hemline. Therefore, shoulder to hem will always be longer than hollow to hem for a garment with sleeves. This distinction is crucial for accurate pattern drafting and garment construction, ensuring a proper fit and desired length.
How is hollow to hem measured?
Accurately measuring hollow to hem requires precision. Here's a step-by-step guide:
- Find the hollow: Locate the armhole, specifically the deepest point of the armhole curve. This is usually found on a well-fitting garment or pattern.
- Locate the hemline: Determine the desired length of the garment.
- Measure vertically: Using a flexible measuring tape, measure straight down from the hollow point to the desired hemline. This measurement is your "hollow to hem."
Why is hollow to hem important in sewing?
The hollow to hem measurement is fundamental for several reasons:
- Accurate Pattern Making: It’s a crucial dimension used in creating patterns. Inaccurate measurements here will result in a garment that's too short or too long.
- Proper Fit: Ensuring the correct hollow to hem length is crucial for a well-fitting garment. Too short, and the garment will be uncomfortably tight; too long, and it will be sloppy.
- Consistent Sizing: This measurement ensures consistent sizing across different garment pieces and sizes, essential for mass production or creating multiple versions of the same garment.
- Design Aesthetics: The hollow to hem measurement directly impacts the overall silhouette and aesthetic of the garment.
How do I use hollow to hem in my sewing projects?
The hollow to hem measurement is essential when:
- Creating your own patterns: You'll use it to determine the length of your pattern pieces.
- Adapting existing patterns: You may need to adjust the existing pattern's hollow to hem measurement to achieve your desired length.
- Altering existing garments: If you are lengthening or shortening a garment, you will need to accurately measure the hollow to hem before making any alterations.
Remember, always double-check your measurements to avoid costly mistakes! Accurate measurement is paramount to a successful sewing project.
What other measurements are important for garment construction?
While hollow to hem is crucial, it's only one piece of the puzzle. Other important measurements include:
- Shoulder to waist: Measures the distance from the shoulder point to the natural waistline.
- Waist to hem: Measures the distance from the waistline to the hemline.
- Bust circumference: Measures around the fullest part of the bust.
- Waist circumference: Measures around the natural waistline.
- Hip circumference: Measures around the fullest part of the hips.
By understanding and accurately taking these measurements, you'll be well on your way to creating well-fitting and beautiful garments.
